Grèce Voyages

ROAD TRIP EN CRETE

/// Informations pratiques, bonnes adresses et conseils en fin d’article

Holaaaaaa les gars, ou “Kalimera” comme le diraient nos amis Crétois,

Me voici fraîchement revenue d’une semaine de DINGUERIE en Crète (bon, le terme “fraîchement” n’est plus trop approprié…fraîche, je l’étais encore quand j’ai commencé cet article mais au final, vu mon débit de paroles, la rédaction s’est un peu éternisée et voici déjà trois mois que nous sommes rentrés…), et, deux constats :

1-L’euphorie que j’éprouvais jusqu’à présent pour mon salon de jardin sur ma terrasse à Lyon avec vis-à-vis sur la barre d’immeuble d’en face a bel et bien disparu,

2-La fêta c’est trop bon,

C’est avec cette introduction fascinante que je vais me lancer dans un récit détaillé jour par jour de notre petite excursion en pays crétois avec Patrick, qui pour les besoins de cet article et pour le côté folklore, sera renommé Patrikos (on résume donc : Patrikos, c’est Patrick, Patrick c’est mon mec, qui s’appelle pas du tout Patrick en vrai, ni Patrikos, ni Georgios, ni Patrice. Je cherche pas à préserver son anonymat, je cherche juste à cacher le fait que j’ai changé 5 fois de mecs depuis le début de mon blog – ça par exemple ça va pas faire rire Patrikos…)Il y a fort à parier que, étant donnée la concision dont je sais faire preuve, cet article risque de devenir en réalité une trilogie d’à peu près 1750 pages par tome. Il y a donc de grandes chances que je décide de scinder cet article en deux. Quand je pense à mon pote Jules qui a réussi à résumer son tour du monde en 80 jours dans un seul livre, CHAPEAU L’ARTISTE.

Aquila Atlantis Hotel Heraklion

Jour 1 – Héraklion

J’ai un peu honte de vous avouer que j’ai tellement pas kiffé cette ville que la seule photo que j’ai prise, c’est celle de la piscine de l’hôtel. Autant vous dire que concrètement, j’aurais pu être en plein centre ville de Roubaix, personne aurait vu la différence. Un peu naz de commencer l’article en vous disant que j’ai détesté la plus grande ville de Crète, mais rassurez-vous, ça a été le seul endroit décevant et on y est resté que quelques heures. Pour vous expliquer un peu l’ambiance des vacances, nous avons hésité jusqu’au dernier moment sur la destination car nous voulions absolument aller au soleil mais la météo n’est pas toujours clémente début Mai. Trois jours avant notre départ, nous avons vu avec Patrikos que le temps en Crète était plutôt agréable alors BINGO ! On a pris les billets, on a préparé le baluchon et adios les gars. J’ai réservé juste une nuit à Heraklion deux secondes avant de décoller car nous arrivions en fin d’après-midi et on tenait tout de même à voir ce que ça donnait.

Je n’ai pas du savoir saisir le charme de cette ville mais au final de tout ce que j’ai entendu, les commentaires se rejoignent. C’est la ville la plus moche de Crète, apparemment. Je n’ai pas vu toute la Crète mais tout de même une bonne dizaine de villes, et de mon point de vue, je le confirme. Cela dit, nous nous sommes retrouvés dans un très bon hôtel en centre ville, un 5 étoiles à un prix très abordable (dans les 80€ avec le petit déjeuner inclus, je vous mettrais toutes les adresses en fin d’article). Si vous décidez de rester plus longtemps sur place, je pense qu’il y a néanmoins pas mal de sites archéologiques à visiter dans les alentours mais nous ne restions qu’une petite semaine alors nous avons préféré voir du pays.

Pour cette première soirée nous avons tout de même trouvé un restaurant absolument délicieux, que je vous recommande À FOND ! Rien que pour ce resto, j’ai envie de retourner à Heraklion. Ca nous a bien immergé dans la gastronomie crétoise et ma première pensée a été “Putain, on va se régaler“. J’ai mangé la meilleure brochette de porc de toute ma vie, cuit d’une telle façon qu’on aurait dit du confit d’agneau, allez savoir pourquoi…Je crois que c’est ce que j’aime dans cette cuisine : des choses simples, mais des produits de qualité qui ont un goût exceptionnel, relevés par des épices et des condiments.

Le lendemain, Patrikos a loué une voiture et est venu chercher sa princesse en bas de l’hôtel pour l’emmener faire le tour de la crète. YOUPIIII ! Enfin, une princesse en tongs, pas maquillée et avec les cheveux gras, qui s’était mise en mode “VACANCES, J’OUBLIE TOUT – MÊME LE SHAMPOING !“. Objectif de la journée : improviser. Nous avions eu quelques conseils la veille par des locaux, qui nous recommandaient de nous attaquer plutôt à l’ouest de la crète si nous souhaitions de la nature, de l’authentique et peu de touristes. EH MAIS BINGO LES GARS, C’EST PILE CE QU’ON VEUT, TROP DINGUE ? En même temps, je m’imaginais mal quiconque sur Terre lui répondre “Ah ba non moi je veux partager mon transat sur une plage blindée avec une famille de Tuches dans la ville la plus pourrie et surtout, je veux bouffer de la merde !“. Sur les conseils de notre nouvel ami crétois, nous avons entamé le jour 2. PLEINS PHARES SUR LE JOUR 2 !

Ce joyeux matin nous sommes montés dans notre petite Suzuki blanche de location, Patrikos a mis sa playlist Pop sur Deezer, et nous voilà partis dans le plein pays ! Cap vers le Sud ! Nous traversons la Crète depuis Heraklion, au Nord, pour aller jusqu’au Sud, à Matala, un petit village de pêcheurs connu pour avoir été le lieu de villégiature préféré des Hippies dans les années 60. J’AI TOUJOURS RÊVÉ D’ALLER À WOODSTOCK, BANCO LES GARS ! 1h20 de route, à la découverte de la Crète ! Et là je peux vous dire, les gars, que niveau conduite, déjà, t’es dépaysé. Bon, c’est Patrikos qui a conduit tout le long hein parce que bon moi, j’ai assez de la France toute entière pour faire des dégâts, on va pas en rajouter ! Dès les premiers kilomètres on a halluciné de voir tous les crétois conduire sur la bande d’arrêt d’urgence mais au final les gars, ils sont plutôt futés, parce que comme ça, ba sur une route à double sens à une seule voie, ba tu peux doubler même quand quelqu’un arrive en face. Alors que moi typiquement tu me fous là-dessus en France derrière un camion ba tu peux être sûr que le camion je vais bien rester derrière jusqu’à ce que Marco le routier décide d’aller faire sa pause-dej. Un peu flippant au départ, mais on s’habitue vite. Enfin, j’imagine que Patrikos s’est vite habitué, moi, j’ai décidé de fermer les yeux.

Si je commence à vous parler de la nationale pendant trois plombs, cet article va être interminable. Pour résumer : tu conduis sur la bande d’arrêt d’urgence, il y a des stations service tous les cinquante mètres et des petites chapelles sur le bord de la route pour honorer les morts (il y en a beaucoup, BEAUCOUP…hyper rassurant les gars, merci…).

Sur la route de Matala, nous sommes passés par des petits villages d’un charme fouuuuuu, pour faire de courtes haltes. D’abord, Peza, un village viticole, puis, Myrta, un des villages les plus fleuris de Crète. Je vous avoue que je n’ai même pas de photo car en arrivant en Crète, j’étais tellement fascinée par absolument tout que je n’ai même pas pensé à sortir mon téléphone (On me dit dans l’oreillette que c’est ça la vraie vie…). Je n’ai malheureusement pas immortalisé ces endroits en photo mais j’en garde de très souvenirs. Nous avons traversé de nombreux villages en passant par le centre de la Crète et c’est fascinant de voir à quel point ils sont entretenus et soignés. Des fleurs partout, PARTOUT. T’arrives dans un village de 300 habitants, t’as pas de poste, pas de tabac, pas de supérette, par contre, t’as trois fleuristes. J’ai trouvé ça tellement dingue leur passion pour les fleurs alors que j’arrive pas à élever une orchidée plus de deux semaines….Bref, un dépaysement garanti au bout de cinq minutes hors d’Heraklion.

Nous arrivons en fin de matinée dans le joli village de Matala, au bord de l’eau, avec une seule idée en tête : BOUFFER. Après une exploration rapide des lieux et un check sur TripAdvisor (mon meilleur ami des vacances), on a choisi un resto sur les hauteurs, en bord de mer, avec une terrasse de folie juste au-dessus de l’eau. On savait qu’on allait manger au bord de l’eau, quoi, mais on s’attendait pas à manger carrément les pieds dans l’eau. Le serveur nous a emmené un peu en dehors de la foule et des grandes tablées, nous a fait descendre quelques marches, et on s’est retrouvés sur une petite table perchée juste au bord de l’eau. Le méga-kif. Une vue de dingue, un soleil de folie, bref, un premier repas du midi en Crète très réussi. Au menu ? Ba voyons, les gars, salade grecque. Alors, nota bene : les portions sont très très généreuses. Si vous êtes des veaux comme nous, vous apprécierez la combinaison salade grecque en entrée + plat ensuite mais honnêtement, pour des gens normaux et qui raisonnables, la salade est amplement suffisante.

Petite promenade digestive dans les rues de Matala, je crois bien que l’apaisement des vacances est en train de me gagner. Je flâne, je n’accorde plus aucune importance à mon apparence physique depuis 24h, j’ai même pas envie de me plaindre, consulter frénétiquement mes mails ne fait plus partie de mes réflexes : TOUT – VA – BIEN. Matala, c’est fait.

Nous repartons on the road, direction Rethymnon. Bon, pas sûre que l’itinéraire était forcément le mieux, partir du nord pour aller dans le sud et retourner dans le nord, pas forcément la solution la plus rapide mais on a vu du pays au moins. Rethymnon c’est la deuxième ville de Crète, pas très loin d’Heraklion, mais réputée pour être une des plus jolies villes du pays. LET’S GO. C’est parti pour 1h37 à travers la campagne (une telle précision est due à Google Maps, of course).

Rethymnon les gars. J’ai qu’une photo. J’étais encore dans ma bulle alors j’ai pas trop pensé à dégainer mon portable. Mais clairement, ça vaut le détour. Je n’avais même pas fait attention au chat qui se cache sur cette photo mais c’est assez représentatif de la Crète. Des chats errants PARTOUT. Très très minces. Ils ont du mal à trouver à manger les pauvres…quand je vois que le mien pèse 8kg et passe sa journée à se goinfrer, je l’emmènerai un jour en Crète pour lui montrer la misère de ses congénères félins hein, enfant pourri gâté ! Rethymnon n’a rien à voir avec Héraklion, à part que ça rime et que les gens parlent grec. Il y a une vieille ville remplie de petites ruelles tellement agréables pour se promener, flâner, acheter des magnets (MA PASSION). Nous avons adoré l’atmosphère de la ville alors nous avons décidé de faire une halte une nuit en réservant un hôtel directement sur place, proche de la vieille ville. Une fois n’est pas coutume, on a trouvé le soir un restaurant de folie où nous avons mangé local dans un environnement très chaleureux. Quand je dis “manger“, c’est un euphémisme… Entrée, plat…dessert offert ! Une fois sur deux, au restaurant, le dessert est offert, accompagné d’un petit digestif. Pour sortir, Rethymnon est très ambiancé. C’est en réalité la seule ville que nous avons faite durant notre périple qui avait de nombreux bars ouverts au bord de la mer, remplis de monde avec la musique au fond et les regards légèrement vitreux annonçant le début d’une bonne cuite. Mais Patrikos et moi avons été raisonnables ce soir là et nous sommes rentrés tôt pour affronter une nouvelle journée ON THE ROAD.

Troisième jour, cap sur Chania, La Canée. Une ville en bord de mer, au nord, pas très loin de Rethymnon. Nous avons choisi un hôtel en bord de mer avec un petit bout de plage privée pour se reposer un peu, après tout c’est le but des vacances !  Jusque-là, nous avons réalisé l’exploit de trouver chaque nuit un hôtel moins cher que la veille. Pour cette troisième nuit, encore bingo les gars ! Peu de visites ce jour-là, on s’est mis en mode FARNIENTE. Toujours du mal à déconnecter mon cerveau mais bon, tu me fous sur un transat en plein cagnard au bord de la mer avec des écouteurs dans les oreilles, et généralement, l’univers s’occupe du reste. Patrikos et moi avons déjeuné au bord de l’eau, à l’hôtel. Grosse salade grecque, avant une bonne sieste sur la plage. Cet hôtel dégageait une atmosphère vraiment chouette. Bon, il dégageait surtout qu’il y’avait personne et qu’on était au calme. Il dégageait qu’il y’avait pas d’enfants qui braillaient partout et qu’il fallait pas se battre pour avoir un transat. Après cette journée de repos, faut pas déconner les gars, l’heure de l’apéro est venue. L’occasion de découvrir Chania en fin de journée et de flâner dans les rues, une de mes activités préférées en vacances. PASSION FLÂNERIE ! Cette ville ressemble assez à Rethymnon, avec une vieille ville au bord de l’eau, dans laquelle on se perd dans une multitude de petites ruelles abritant des échoppes, des bars et des terrasses de restaurants. Quand je dis qu’on se perd, on se perd littéralement. Avec Patrikos on a cherché un resto, on l’a jamais trouvé. On a compris après qu’il était fermé et on s’est réfugié dans un autre endroit, appelés par la musique et les danseurs traditionnels qui performaient au milieu de la terrasse du resto. Dans un élan de folklore, on s’est dit « Allez, go, petite soirée musicale ». Je pense surtout que Patrikos ça l’arrange quand y a de la musique, il entend moins ce que je raconte. Cette charmante petite soirée m’a mis en appétit de FIESTA, on a décidé de faire la tournée des bars du port. On a vite été freinés dans notre élan par le fait que tous les bars étaient vides mais bon, ça ne nous a pas empêchés de vider quelques JagerBomb dans trois bars différents. Astuce d’alcoolo : en Crète, quand tu arrives dans un bar, ils t’offrent un shot. Sympa si t’arrives dans un bar à 16h après le thé… FAUT S’ADAPTER. Et moi, je me suis très bien adaptée. La légende dit que je me suis tellement bien adaptée que j’ai fini torchée.

Résumé du troisième jour : une petite pause de douceur et de soleil au bord de l’eau, avec une soirée endiablée dans la jolie ville de Chania, celle que j’ai préférée parmi toutes. Ah oui, j’allais oublier de vous dire : je garde des souvenirs indélébiles de la nuit de folie que nous avons passé. NON NON C’EST PAS CE QUE VOUS CROYEZ, PETITS COCHONS !  Patrikos et moi avons passé la nuit à … chasser des moustiques. Et ce que je peux vous dire, c’est qu’un moustique qui vient de sucer ton sang, ba quand tu l’écrases, ça fait « SPLASH ». Voilà.

Là les gars, le jour 4, on rentre dans du lourd. On rentre dans de la photo de carte postale que t’envoies à ta grand-mère, de la photo que tu postes sur Facebook avec pour légende « ON EST PAS TROP MAL LES GARS » pour rendre jaloux les badauds restés au bercail à bosser, de la photo de fond d’écran d’ordinateur. On rentre dans du paysage inoubliable. Surtout, on rentre dans du « TOTALEMENT INCONTOURNABLE ». Clairement, si vous allez en Crète, les endroits à ne pas rater se situent dans le jour 4 et jour 5. Alors on reste focus, on prend son calepin et on prend des notes !

Au matin du quatrième jour, nous avons traversé la Crète du nord jusqu’à l’extrême sud-ouest pour nous rendre à la plage d’Elafonisi. Le périple en voiture a été aussi agréable que la découverte de l’endroit en lui-même. Des kilomètres et des kilomètres à rouler à travers mer, campagne, montagnes et villages, à découvrir des paysages totalement contrastés et à écouter la playlist pop de Patrikos pour la 52ème fois. En deux heures de voyage j’ai eu l’impression de changer de pays plusieurs fois. Et notre pote crétois du premier jour n’avait pas tort : on a vraiment débarqué dans une zone peu touristique. Très peu de voitures croisées sur la route, très peu d’êtres humains = je ne demande rien de plus pour être heureuse.

Au bout d’une longue route désertique, on est finalement arrivés à Elafonisi. Petit conseil les gars : vérifiez la météo et surtout le vent avant de vous rendre dans cet endroit magique. Sauf si vous êtes un oiseau, dans ce cas, vous n’aurez pas de problème. Les conditions météo du jour ont fait qu’il n’était pas possible de rester sur place pour profiter d’une petite sieste au bord de l’eau mais rien que de se promener sur les bords de la plage vous en mettra plein les yeux. Elafonisi est une des plus belles plages de Crète qui vous transportera directement aux Caraïbes. Elafonisi ça ressemble un peu à la plage d’Instagram, pleine de filtres pour rendre l’eau turquoise alors qu’en vrai t’es au bord de la Manche à Dunkerque. Cette jolie plage est connue pour son sable aux reflets roses et pour son île accessible à pieds. C’est assez impressionnant : l’eau est très peu profonde jusqu’à une petite île proche du rivage, donc tu peux traverser à pattes, avec de l’eau jusqu’aux genoux. J’ai trouvé ça assez fascinant de voir tous ces gens marcher habillés dans l’eau, tels des pèlerins sur le chemin de Lourdes. Comme je sais que je n’arriverai pas à vous retranscrire l’image que j’ai en tête, je vous ai pris une petite photo.

Voilà. Elafonisi c’est une plage dont le nom ne veut plus rien dire une fois que tu l’as répété dix fois mais ça reste un endroit pour moi incontournable en Crête si vous cherchez de l’authentique et si vous voulez découvrir un endroit encore préservé du tourisme de masse et préservé des types qui vendent des beignets et des chouchous. Pas préservé du vent par contre, mais bon, on ne peut pas tout avoir.

Après Elafonisi, difficile de faire mieux vous me direz… La suite du programme : découvrir une autre plage magnifique de Crète, au nord cette fois-ci. En se dirigeant vers Balos, petite surprise au programme : Patrikos et moi avons l’œil vif et nous avons repéré au loin un monastère qui sortait de nulle part. Et c’est ça le charme des vacances improvisées, faire des détours inattendus et découvrir des endroits à couper le souffle. Un monastère en soi c’est pas forcément le truc le plus bandant sur Terre mais celui-ci, les gars, et bah si. En grimpant les marches de l’édifice, on a découvert une vue absolument sublime sur toute la baie et sur des eaux d’une couleur de MALADE MENTAL (vous avez vu j’ai un vocabulaire de folie hein). La vue qui te fait sentir con tellement tu te dis que l’univers est si beau et que toi tu vis dans un appartement où le matin la première chose que tu vois par la fenêtre c’est tes voisins qui font leur lit. J’ai regardé Patrikos, j’ai trouvé que le bleu de la mer de malade mental (oui, c’est un nouveau bleu que j’ai rebaptisé. Le bleu de malade mental) allait bien avec ses yeux et je me suis dit que désormais, chaque jour, quand je le regarderai dans les yeux, je me perdrais dedans comme dans la mer. NON JE DECONNE. Pardon. J’ai même pas regardé Patrikos, je lui ai juste dit « EH TU PEUX ME FAIRE UNE PHOTO POUR INSTAGRAM ? ». Et j’ai fait une photo en mode #NOFILTER. Mais je trouvais ça joli d’intercaler un petit instant romantique dans mon récit (parce que l’histoire de notre nuit avec les moustiques, c’était pas forcément hyper fou niveau romantisme…).

Tapez dans vos mains si je raconte ma vie alors que vous, vous voulez juste que je parle de la Crète. C’est bon, les gars, il reste encore 4 jours hein ! Suite du programme de la journée = direction Balos pour profiter de l’après-midi dans un hôtel au milieu de nulle part. Besoin d’un peu de répit pour se remettre de toutes les émotions visuelles du début de journée. Sur le chemin, nous avons fait une halte dans le village d’Elos pour manger au resto, au milieu des montagnes puis nous avons rejoint notre hôtel. Voilà, le jour 4, je crois que c’était ma journée préférée. Le soir, nous avons mangé local dans le petit village de Kaliviani, très proche de l’hôtel, qui se résume à une seule rue avec deux restaurants qui se font face : LE C A L M E total. Ca faisait pas de mal après la chasse aux moustiques de la veille.

Les jours passent et ne se ressemblent pas ! Direction Balos Beach dès le matin. Nous avons exploré les différentes options pour s’y rendre. Deux solutions : le bateau ou la voiture. Si le concept de bateau me semblait assez séduisant à prime abord, en lisant des commentaires sur TripAdvisor, on a vite compris qu’aller en bateau à Balos c’était un peu comme le débarquement en Normandie de 44. Ils te débarquent une centaine de touristes d’un coup, comme ça, comme des moutons parqués. NO WAY, MERCI MAIS NON MERCI.

L’option voiture nous effrayait un peu au début car certains commentaires faisaient un peu flipper et indiquaient que sans 4X4, c’était du suicide…On s’est vite rendu compte que les gens avaient une passion pour l’exagération. Pour se rendre à Balos en voiture il faut simplement rouler sur un chemin de terre et de graviers pendant une petite demi-heure et tu passes sans problème avec n’importe quelle voiture, en roulant plus ou moins doucement. La route est époustouflante, une demi-heure à rouler à flanc de falaises et à croiser des chèvres posées comme des plantes en plein milieu du chemin. Au bout de la route, il faut s’arrêter sur un parking et continuer à pieds pour découvrir au bout de quelques mètres une plage magnifique aux eaux turquoises. Nous y sommes allées vers 10h et l’endroit était encore plutôt désert. Il y a un long escalier en pierre à descendre pour rejoindre la plage et un conseil : allez-y avant 11h si vous voulez vraiment profiter du paysage, parce que juste après 11h, c’est le débarquement, les gars ! Potentiellement, tu te retrouves vite comme un con au milieu d’une jungle de touristes et pour l’aspect détente et sérénité, il faudra repasser… Plus belle plage d’Europe : DONE. On envoie une petite photo à Maman et aux collègues, puis c’est reparti sur la route !

Le problème avec cet article, les gars, c’est que toutes les parties au-dessus, je les ai écrites fraîchement après le voyage. Là, on est fin juillet, donc ça fait trois mois que je suis rentrée, je ne sais même plus à quoi ressemble le goût de la fêta et je dois encore finir de vous raconter le voyage. L’avantage, c’est que ça sera plus concis : je m’en tiendrai à l’essentiel. Au final, l’essentiel, c’est ce qu’on retient encore trois mois après son voyage, non ? Après Balos Beach, nous avons décidé de mettre le cap sur l’est de la Crète, une partie plus touristique apparemment, mais qui vaut le détour. Direction Malia ! Une station balnéaire à 40km de la capitale, présentée sur le papier comme le bijou des clubbers. À la bonne heure ! Disons que le bijou des clubbers, au début du mois de Mai, c’était un bijou totalement vide, avec les trois quarts des restaurants et des bars fermés. Tant mieux, les soirées clubbings avec Patrick ça peut vite mal finir donc au final le concept de repos nous allait bien aussi.

Nous avons dégoté un petit hôtel tout proche de la mer, clairement un de mes préférés du séjour ! On a tellement aimé l’ambiance générale et pour ne rien enlever au charme, cet hôtel s’est avéré être le moins cher de la semaine : une cinquantaine d’euros. Programme du jour : manger au bord de l’eau dans un lit à baldaquin, boire un spritz, faire une sieste, reconduire l’expérience dans un lit au bord de la piscine, refaire une sieste, aller se promener dans les rues pour trouver un bon petit resto, trouver un vraiment vraiment bon resto et passer une soirée au calme à boire du prosecco en mangeant du poulet à l’orange. LE RÊVE !

La fin des vacances approche et il reste tant de choses à voir ! Je vous avoue qu’à partir de là, pour profiter à fond de mes dernières heures de liberté, j’ai un peu abandonné l’idée de prendre des tonnes de photos, et j’ai juste décidé de photographier les souvenirs dans ma tête. Je vous jure que c’est pas mal aussi ! Pour notre sixième jour, nous avons choisi Elounda comme prochaine destination, un petit village de pêcheurs situé au nord est de la Crète, reconverti en station balnéaire. Programme plutôt détente avoir s’être mis dans les pattes des centaines de bornes les jours précédents : on réserve un hôtel au bord de la mer et on profite de la journée pour se promener dans Elounda, pour squatter la piscine en rooftop et le bar. Oui le roadtrip commence à prendre des allures de farniente, après tout, c’est les vacances aussi ! Bientôt une semaine que nous sommes en Crète et nous n’avons pas dormi deux nuits d’affilée dans le même hôtel… Elounda, je n’ai qu’une photo mais j’en retiens ses nombreux charmes et surtout la cuite monumentale prise avec Patrick et le barman de l’hôtel, Arilaos. Bon, j’ai qu’une photo d’Elounda, mais j’ai des vidéos par contre… Je les garderai précieusement jusqu’à la fin de mes jours ! 

L’aube du dernier jour est arrivée, les gars ! Vous voyez que progressivement le roadtrip est devenu un truc avec plus vraiment de road et plus vraiment de trip mais bordel, qu’est-ce-qu’on a kiffé. Dernier jour, nous voilà confrontés avec Patrikos à d’innombrables dilemmes : que faire de ces dernières 24heures qui s’offrent à nous telle une vierge s’offre à son mari le soir de sa lune de miel ? (Il est temps que je finisse la rédaction de cet article, je pars en couille)(pardon). On pouvait se taper encore des heures de bagnole (mais avec toujours la même playlist pop de Patrikos, ça devenait rude) pour visiter à fond l’Est ou alors se dénicher un endroit sympa pour y établir notre camp de base. Cap sur le Sud !

Pour trouver un hôtel, la tâche était simplifiée hein, il devait y’en avoir à peu près cinq sur Booking. On a eu un gros coup de coeur pour celui-ci et en cherchant où se garer, on a pu constater avec Patrikos qu’il y avait des gens qui se mettaient plutôt bien avec leur piscine privée. Ni une ni trois, à la réception, dans notre anglais parfait, on s’enquiert immédiatement du prix des suites avec piscine privée histoire de faire nos tuches pour la dernière nuit et d’avoir l’impression qu’on est un peu riches. En vrai, on est riches de ce que l’on donne, donc ça va. Bref, pour cette dernière journée, on s’est fait plaisir. On a pris notre petite chambre avec piscine privée et on a fait les lézards toute la journée. Patrikos a même fait le lézard qui ronfle sur son transat au bord de la piscine.

Mention spéciale pour un des meilleurs plats de ma life : la carbonara crétoise. J’aurais jamais cru dire ça hein parce que la carbonara c’est quand même un putain de mythe pour moi. Mais là les gars, fallait avoir l’idée. Fallait avoir l’idée de faire une carbonara encore plus grasse que la carbonara normale : la carbonara à la fêta. Franchement c’était divinos !

En fin d’après-midi, Patrikos et moi-même sommes sortis de notre état de lézards pour aller visiter du pays. QUAND MEME HEIN ! Direction Ierapetra : la ville la plus méridionale d’Europe ! Franchement, juste pour pouvoir le dire, fallait y’aller. Là, j’ai pas su trop saisir non plus le charme de la ville je crois. On a fait le tour à pieds puis on est repartis vers d’autres horizons, un peu incrédules. Au gré des panneaux et de notre inspiration, on est tombés sur Myrtos, pile ce qu’on voulait. Petit village typique au bord de l’eau avec les bonnes petites terrasses au milieu des rues pavées et l’odeur de feta qui te court après dans les rues : BANCO. Dernière soirée au top, à manger du tzatziki pour clôturer sur un bon gros cliché.

Et voici la dernière photo qu’il me restera de ce séjour. Des souvenirs, j’en ai gardés plein, des magnets sur mon frigo aussi, des capitons sur mon cul aussi. Avec Patrikos on a placé la barre très haute pour ces vacances et elles étaient folles. Nous devons repartir dans deux semaines, Dieu seul sait où (et j’aimerais bien qu’il me le dise d’ailleurs…) et je me demande si c’est possible d’égaler la perfection de ces vacances. Voilà, je pense en avoir assez dit et je vais maintenant me coller au guide pratique avec toutes les informations pertinentes, les bonnes adresses, ETC.

 

Informations pratiques pour un road-trip en Crète

 

  • Budget / Prix sur place

Je vous ai pas fait un excel avec une comptabilité détaillée de tous les frais réalisés sur place mais en gros, vraiment en gros, je pense que notre voyage tout compris nous a coûté entre 800€ et 1000€ par personne en se faisant plaisir, sans être frustré, sans crever la dalle, sans dormir sur le bitume. Billets d’avion compris et location de voiture incluse. Pour 7 jours.

  • Location voiture

On a pas mal hésité pour la réserver en avance, pour la réserver à l’aéroport directement en arrivant ou pour la réserver sur place n’importe où au gré du vent. Finalement, en arrivant, on a pris un taxi jusqu’à l’hôtel pour la première soirée, on a réservé en ligne le soir même pour le lendemain, on est retournés à l’aéroport la chercher et c’était bien moins cher que directement sur place. Je sais pas si c’est très clair ce que je raconte. On a payé 130€ la semaine pour une voiture assez spacieuse.

  • Meilleure période pour aller en Crète

Je veux pas dire qu’on est les meilleurs avec Patrikos mais franchement, la meilleure période, c’était pile la semaine où on y était. Début Mai. C’est-à-dire début de saison, tout qui commence à ouvrir, mais pas l’afflux de touristes qui te rend complètement barge. Pareil pour le temps, pas les 40°C qui te font transpirer de la raie, mais un bon ratio compris entre 25 et 30 selon les jours. Par contre, la mer pique un peu, faut pas être frileux.

  • Zones touristiques

Les parties les plus touristiques se situent à l’Est de la Crète, vers toutes les stations balnéaires. Agios Nikolaos, je me rends compte que je n’en ai même pas parlé dans mon article tellement c’était blindé de monde déjà au mois de Mai et qu’à part faire les boutiques pour acheter des mugs de la Crète, y a franchement rien à voir. Dans cette zone là, vous trouverez surtout les hôtels all inclusive, bon plan si vous voulez glander et vous reposer mais pas la meilleure partie pour voir du pays. L’ouest de la Crète, du Nord au Sud, entre Balos et Elafonisi est beaucoup plus calme, beaucoup plus abrité du tourisme de masse. D’ailleurs, vous n’y trouverez pas d’énormes complexes hôteliers : TANT MIEUX.

Les bonnes adresses en Crète

  • Hôtels

Héraklion

Aquila Atlantis Hotel *****

A dix minutes de l’aéroport en voiture, à dix minutes à pied du port d’Heraklion. Mega piscine en roof top. 84€ la nuit avec petit-déjeuner au mois de mai.

Réthymnon

Ionia suites ****

En plein centre de Réthymnon, vers le port. Plus intimiste et déco plus ancienne, avec piscine en rooftop. On a vraiment passé peu de temps à l’hôtel mais très bon rapport qualité/prix. 68€ la nuit.

Chania – Kalamaki

Corrina Mare ***

A dix minutes en voiture de la ville de la Canée, en bord de mer. Un petit village vacances vraiment très chouette, avec plage privée et deux piscines. Un grand appartement avec une chambre, pour 62€ la nuit. Par contre, faut kiffer partager sa vie avec des moustiques.

Balos

Balos Beach ***

Là avec Patrikos on s’est dit qu’on faisait fort parce qu’à chaque nuit on a payé moins cher que la veille. 46€ pour un hôtel avec piscine, vue mer, dans un petit village bien au calme, juste au départ de la route pour se rendre à Balos Beach.

Malia

Drossia Palm Beach Hotel and Nisos Suites

Un de mes hôtels préférés avec une piscine entourée de grands lits à baldaquins et de palmiers, juste le top du top pour se reposer. 50€ la nuit, tout proche de la plage et en plein centre.

Elounda

Elounda Akti Olous (Adults Only) ****

Là tu sens que tu te rapproches des zones touristiques. Adults Only c’est la mention pour dire “T’as pas de gamin qui font des bombes dans l’eau et qui éclaboussent ton Spritz”. Un hôtel avec petit-déjeuner les pieds dans l’eau, bar et piscine en roof top, dans lequel nous avons dégusté à peu près toute la carte des cocktails.

Koutsounari

Kakkos Beach Bay *****

Notre petit kif du dernier soir dans un hôtel assez fou au bord de la mer. 180€ la nuit pour la suite avec piscine privée.

 

  • Restaurants

Heraklion

Peskesi 

Premier restaurant en Crète, je suis incapable de vous dire le nom du plat mais vraiment, j’en garde encore le souvenir sur mes papilles.

Matala

Hakuna Matata

Le petit restaurant les pieds dans l’eau. Rien d’extraordinaire dans la bouffe : c’est bon, voilà. Mais le cadre est exceptionnel.

Rethymnon

To pigadi

Alors là les gars, merci Trip Advisor qui nous a encore emmené dans un petit resto perdu au milieu des ruelles avec une grande terrasse. Je vous conseille en entrée l’assortiment de fromages crétois.

La Canée

To Xani 

Un restaurant dans une petite rue pavée avec concert et danse folklorique toute la soirée, niquel quand tu viens de t’engueuler avec Patrikos. Petite recommandation : le stifado.

Malia

San giorgio

Un restaurant dans le centre historique où j’ai dégusté un délicieux poulet à l’orange. Perso j’aurais jamais eu l’idée de mélanger du poulet et de l’orange donc rien que pour ça je salue l’initiative. Pour la petite histoire, c’est une française qui tient le resto avec son mari crétois. Ils se sont rencontrés en Asie lors d’un voyage et elle a tout plaqué pour le rejoindre en Crète. Aaaaah ça me donnerait presque envie si j’étais pas amoureuse de Patrikos hein…

Elounda

Ergo Spasio

Je vous conseille ABSOLUMENT de goûter l’apaki en entrée. Je sais plus trop ce que c’est, c’est genre du lard crétois en fait. Celui qu’ils utilisent pour mettre dans la carbonara ! Une tuerie !!!!

Myrtos

La Sera

Dernier dîner en terrasse au coeur de Myrtos avec un service impeccable, des bons plats et comme toujours, un très bon rapport qualité prix.

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1 538 Comments

  1. J’étais en Crète une fois il y a très longtemps et j’ai adoré lire ton article qui m’a fait beaucoup rire ! Pour moi aussi les chapelles se succédant au bord de la route m’avait un peu mis les frissons. Je me souviens de trajets en car où on se faisait un peu tous dessus face à la “fougue” du conducteur. On a même applaudit des fois, rassurés une fois qu’il s’était rabattu après avoir doublé deux cars dans des virages, sans aucune visibilité..

    Bref, hormis ces détails routiers, j’en ai que de bons souvenirs. La mer y est si belle !
    J’hésite pas mal à y retourner quand même, malgré le tourisme de masse ! 🙂

  2. […] Après une année chargée en voyages (que j’ai racontés pour la plupart ici, Italie, Crète, Thaïlande et Marrakech en cours de rédaction) nous avons décidé de clôturer en beauté […]

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