Thaïlande Voyages

BANGKOK EN DEUX JOURS

Hola les gaaaaaars,

Toujours en vue de rattraper mon retard dans mes articles voyage, je remonte le temps et je rebrousse chemin sur l’année 2018 pour partager tous mes récits de voyage. (La meuf va remonter le temps jusqu’en 1995 et vous raconter ses vacances en famille chez Pierre & Vacances…). Vous avez peut-être suivi mes péripéties en Thaïlande sur mon compte Instagram. Dans tous les cas, il était temps que je me replonge dans ce voyage magique pour vous raconter tout ça en détails ! Comme d’habitude, les informations pratiques sont à la fin de l’article si vous souhaitez entrer dans le concret tout de suite. Sinon, pour le récit de voyage, ça commence maintenant !

Il était une fois…une nana de 29 ans (ouais, ça commence à tourner au compteur) qui bosse depuis 11 ans et qui ne pense jamais trop à ses vacances. Oui, coucou, c’est moi. Donc voilà, en dix ans, j’aurais pu en faire des beaux voyages, mais j’ai jamais rien fait. Manque de temps, manque d’argent…les vacances c’était beaucoup à la dernière minute, avec les moyens du bord, jamais très loin. En 2018, j’ai décidé de profiter à fond et j’ai enchaîné pas mal de voyages (je compte pas m’arrêter en si bon chemin !). Pour une première destination lointaine et au soleil, dans une culture radicalement différente, nous avons donc décidé avec Patrick de partir en Thaïlande avec ma gow sûre Clémentine et son mec. Notre premier grand voyage tous les deux avec Patrick, loin de nos racines. Et surtout, la première fois de ma vie que je partais au mois de novembre dans un pays où il fait plus de 30°C. Bref, l’aventure de ma vie. Comme c’était une première, c’était totalement improvisé et si c’était à refaire, certaines choses seraient faites différemment, c’est sûr. Mais dans l’ensemble j’ai tellement aimé ce voyage et j’ai tellement hâte de pouvoir y retourner. 10 jours dans un pays qui a tant à offrir, c’est décidément trop court ! Je crois que je vais me spécialiser dans les visites express des pays et des grandes villes. Dans la vie, je manque toujours de temps mais j’ai toujours l’envie de visiter le plus de choses possibles. Du coup, j’optimise à fond et j’essaie de voir un max de lieux et d’endroits en peu de temps. En 10 jours, il s’est donc passé plein de choses et pour éviter de vous faire un pavé de 10 000 mots j’ai décidé de diviser le voyage en plusieurs articles. Je mettrai les liens au fur et à mesure à jour, mais voici le découpage :

  • Bangkok en deux jours
  • Koh Lanta en trois jours (publication février)
  • Se déplacer en Thaïlande (publication février)
  • Voyager en Thaïlande : mes conseils pour bien profiter du voyage (publication février)

Bon, il y a à peu près dix milliards d’autres articles que je pourrais écrire car en vrai, j’ai plein de choses à dire mais je pense pouvoir concentrer l’essentiel dans ses thèmes là.

Bangkok, présentation

Bangkok est la capitale de la Thaïlande et la ville s’étend sur 1569km2 : elle est 15 fois plus grande que Paris et abrite plus de 9 millions d’habitants. Autant vous dire que ça grouille de partout, jour et nuit ! Bangkok se caractérise par des différences de paysages assez dingues : des temples anciens aux nouveaux buildings immenses en passant par des petites bicoques en train de s’écrouler sur les bords du fleuve. C’est vraiment impressionnant d’avoir autant de diversité et d’architectures différentes dans une même ville.

Premier ressenti sur Bangkok

Nous sommes arrivés le soir à Bangkok, sans trop ressentir ni la fatigue ni le décalage. Nous avions pris un hôtel au dernier moment pour une seule nuit, dans le quartier du vieux Bangkok. On est passé vite fait déposer nos bagages et hop, à la découverte de la ville ! (on avait la dalle). Par chance, l’hôtel était dans un quartier vraiment chouette : le vieux Bangkok. Plein de petites ruelles remplies de vendeurs de rues et d’étals : des boutiques de souvenirs, de fringues, des stands de bouffe… Un univers complètement dépaysement, d’un coup ! Et puis surtout, nous avions quitté la pluie et la grisaille pour nous retrouver à 23h le soir en short et en tongs. Le début du rêve, les gars ! J’avais peur d’avoir le mal de pays si loin de chez moi et de me sentir perdue dans une ville si grande mais j’ai tout de suite adhéré à l’ambiance. Pour une première soirée, le quartier du Vieux Bangkok est idéal car il y a finalement peu de monde et ça reste très authentique. Rien à voir avec les autres endroits de la ville que nous avons découverts à notre retour ! Nous sommes restés à Bangkok juste le premier soir en arrivant puis au retour nous y avons passé deux nuits et une journée. Relativement court mais suffisant pour nous, nous avons déjà eu le temps d’en prendre plein les yeux et de bien parcourir la ville.

A faire à Bangkok

Sukhumvit, le quartier qui ne dort jamais

Nous avons dormi ici lors de notre retour à Bangkok…autant vous dire que ça n’avait vraiment rien à voir avec le lieu où nous étions à l’arrivée ! On s’est retrouvés vraiment en plein centre névralgique de la ville, en pleine fourmilière… Ca grouille de monde partout à toute heure du jour et de la nuit. L’endroit idéal si vous aimez quand ça bouge ! Vous trouverez dans ce quartier de nombreux restaurants modernes proposant de la nourriture internationale, des boîtes de nuit, des bars, des immenses centres commerciaux. Vous croiserez probablement de nombreuses prostituées sur toute l’avenue (quant à savoir si ce sont des hommes ou des femmes…bonne question…). Vous trouverez, comme partout, de nombreux salons de massage. Vous verrez également que les grandes enseignes d’hôtel, Sofitel, Marriott, Hilton etc se concentrent ici. Pour moi c’est un quartier idéal pour dormir parce qu’il est central et qu’il permet d’accéder facilement à tous les lieux touristiques (facilement…pas forcément rapidement hein…) ?

Soi Cowboy, passion ladyboy

Impossible de passer à côté de l’effervescence des ladyboy lors de votre vie nocturne à Bangkok. Curieux, nous sommes passés dans la fameuse rue Soi Cowboy, qui ressemble à un mix de la Rue de Lappe à Paris et de Las Vegas (sympa ouais…), remplie de « bars à champagne » et de ladyboy. Un peu hard comme expérience à 20h quand t’es encore sobre mais bon… Téméraires, nous sommes entrés dans un bar de ladyboy sans vraiment savoir à quoi nous attendre. J’en ris encore rien que d’y repenser. On a débarqué dans un bar microscopique avec une immense scène au milieu et des barres de pole dance, entourée de banquettes et de tables. Mais genre c’était étroit comme un bus ou un couloir le bordel, pas moyen de te planquer et d’observer discrètement. On était tous les 4 dans le bar et on s’est fait encercler par la patronne, les serveurs et toute la horde de ladyboy. On a commandé une bière et en cinq minutes on a dû lâcher des billets à tout le monde tellement ils étaient insistants. Un moment aussi gênant que marrant au final. D’autres personnes sont ensuite arrivées et on a pu enfin souffler un peu. On a fini notre verre et on s’est barrés quand même assez vite, plutôt…décontenancés par cette aventure improbable. Je rêvais de voir un ping pong show sauf que quand on a été enfin assez alcoolisés pour avoir envie de franchir cette étape, tous les ping pong show étaient déjà terminés… NEXT TIME !

Le vieux Bangkok, Phra Nakhon, pour le côté authentique

Nous sommes tombés ici par hasard le premier soir en arrivant à Bangkok. A la sortie de l’aéroport, connexion sur Booking, on cherche un endroit sympa, agréable, pas trop loin. On flashe sur le Chillax Heritage, un charmant petit hôtel noté 9,1. CA PASSE. Et nous voici donc en taxi, à la conquête de Bangkok, en direction du Chillax. On pose nos affaires et on repart se promener dans le coin, sans vraiment savoir où on est et on tombe direct sous le charme de toutes ces petites rues authentiques, remplies d’échoppes, de petits bars de rue, de vendeurs ambulants. Un vrai dépaysement en deux minutes ! Ca fait vite lâcher prise et oublier la fatigue et le décalage horaire. On flanne, on erre, on refait les mêmes rues plusieurs fois, on boit un verre, on cherche un endroit sympa où manger, pour finir par déguster un pad thai de folie au milieu de la rue et à kiffer nos races. Ce quartier est aussi celui où vous trouverez de nombreux lieux touristiques, et notamment les plus grands temples. Malheureusement, nous avons du partir tôt le lendemain donc pas de temple pour nous pour commencer ce séjour !

Khao San Road, pour un bon délire entre amis

Cette célèbre avenue de Bangkok se situe dans le vieux Bangkok, près de là où nous étions la première nuit. Nous y sommes allés au retour pour passer une soirée de foliiiiiie furieuse, après notre découverte de Soi Cowboy. Cette avenue a une ambiance de dingue. Il y a des bars sur tout le long de l’avenue, avec de la musique à fond et des immenses terrasses. La rue est blindée à n’importe quelle heure et dès que tu fous un pied là-dedans, t’as juste envie de descendre des cocktails et de sauter partout. C’est d’ailleurs exactement ce qu’on a fait. Ce qu’il s’est passé réellement restera sur place, chers amis… En tout cas, Patrick et moi on a fini tous les deux dans une boîte à boire du champagne toute la nuit. VOILA VOILA. Coucou le doliprane thaïlandais le lendemain.

China Town, pour être encore plus dépaysé

T’étais déjà dépaysé par Bangkok ? Ba écoute va faire un saut à China Town. Nous sommes allés nous y promener le lendemain matin (#malalatete). Un enchaînement de magasins ouverts sur la rue qui vendent des lanternes, des aliments chinois, des bijoux… de marchés dans des petites ruelles étroites et de grandes enseignes lumineuses sur tous les bâtiments. Un quartier vraiment sympa pour se perdre dans les rues et découvrir toutes sortes de produits et d’aliments improbables. Bon, par contre, je vous avoue que pour trouver quelque chose à manger, ça a été plus compliqué. Que des cartes en chinois et des plats bien typiques, qui m’effraient toujours un peu vu que je suis très difficile pour la bouffe. Typiquement on a fini dans un restaurant perdu au fond d’une rue, Patrick a commandé du poulet. Basique, du poulet, vous me direz. Ba il s’est retrouvé à manger des pattes de poulet. AH OUAIS. Moi j’ai mangé les miettes sur la table.

Le temple du Bouddha d’Emeraude Wat Phra Kaeo

Après le quartier chinois, directement le temple Wat Phra Kaeo, à dix minutes en taxi. Difficile de passer à Bangkok sans visiter au moins un temple, les gars. Le temple du Bouddha d’Emeraude est situé en plein cœur du centre historique de Bangkok. Il s’agit du temple le plus grandiose et le plus vaste de Thaïlande, rien que ça !

Le Big Bouddha et le temple Wat Intharawihan

Bon, si vous aimez les buddhas, vous allez être servi à Bangkok hein. Pour clôturer cette journée de crapahutage dans tout Bangkok direction Big Bouddha, dans le temple de Wat Intharawihan. 45 mètres de haut, le gars. Je vous dirais pas de vous attarder dix ans hein, si vous passez dans le coin allez-y faire un tour mais ça dure cinq minutes top chrono, le temps de faire « WAOH » et de faire une photo. Limite, tu peux faire les deux en même temps. Je le mets quand même dans la liste des trucs à faire mais seulement si vous passez par là. Inutile d’aller traverser toute la ville juste pour le voir, je pense qu’il y a mille fois mieux à faire.

Le rooftop Above Eleven, pour voir la ville d’en haut

Nous avons passé notre dernière soirée en amoureux avec Patrick et on a eu envie de faire quelque chose d’un peu différent. C’est vrai que nous avons beaucoup aimé tous les petits endroits qui ne paient pas de mine où nous avons pu manger chaque jour. Mais dans les grandes villes comme ça, ça nous fait toujours plaisir de découvrir aussi la partie plus moderne et design et de pouvoir tester des beaux bars et des beaux restaurants. Nous avons trouvé sur TripAdvisor le « Above Eleven » un restaurant bar tout en haut d’un building, proposant une carte de tapas péruviens-japonais. Rien de mieux pour attirer mon attention ! Le Above Eleven offre une vue à 360° (même dans les toilettes !) et permet de passer un moment unique avec un diaporama saisissant sur toute la ville. Les tapas étaient excellents et vraiment originaux, avec Patrick on a adoré clôturer ainsi notre beau voyage et c’était un merveilleux souvenir de plus que nous avons emporté avec nous. Beaucoup de voyageurs ne comprendraient pas l’intérêt à Bangkok de se rendre dans ce type d’endroits et privilégieraient les lieux  authentiques. De mon côté en tout cas je trouve que toutes les découvertes sont intéressantes à faire et j’aime autant découvrir les quartiers historiques que les nouvelles zones plus modernes. Ca me plait de vivre justement des voyages à deux vitesse et de profiter de tout ce qu’une ville a à offrir.

A éviter absolument

On s’est laissé prendre au jeu. Les tuk-tuk te proposent des espèces de circuits tout faits vraiment pas chers. Après notre passage au temple, on ne savait plus trop où aller et un chauffeur nous a abordé en nous parlant de la fameuse statue Bouddha, c’était pas loin et c’était vraiment pas cher donc on s’est dits « WHY NOT ? ». En plus le mec t’accompagne, t’attend, puis t’emmène je sais pas où avant de te ramener dans le centre. Voilà, le problème, c’était le « Je sais pas où ». Il s’est mis à pleuvoir à grosses GROSSES gouttes (je vous rappele qu’on était dans un tuk tuk complètement ouvert sur les côtés…) et le mec s’est engouffré au fin fond de nulle part pour nous déposer sous la pluie battante devant un magasin de costumes. Avec Patrick on se dit que bordel, il pleut tellement, les rues sont limites inondées, on a aucune envie de descendre du tuk tuk pour aller dans le magasin. Le mec nous force la main alors on descend juste cinq minutes histoire d’entrer dedans et qu’il soit content. Le vendeur à l’intérieur nous lâche plus, impossible de se barrer… On ressort du magasin et on se retrouve donc au milieu de nulle part, à l’autre bout de la ville, sous la mousson limite. On a galéré une heure pour chercher un taxi, personne ne s’est jamais arrêté, on a du prendre reprendre un tuktuk ouvert sous la pluie, qui a mis plus de deux heures à nous ramener à notre hôtel. YOUPI. Alors les petits tours en tuk tuk organisés, ça a l’air sympa…mais évitez les gars !

Pour résumer

Vous vous dites que ça fait beaucoup à visiter, tout ça ? Dites-vous qu’on a réussi à faire tout ça en une journée et trois soirées, avec une bonne grosse cuite au milieu, alors franchement rassurez-vous : en deux/trois jours à Bangkok, vous avez déjà le temps de voir du pays ! Il y a plein d’autres choses à voir dans cette ville évidemment mais sur un court séjour nous avons préféré voir les palmiers et la mer et profiter d’un peu de calme. Mais j’ai hâte d’y retourner et de continuer à découvrir cette ville fascinante !

A très vite pour la suite de notre périple thaïlandais <3

Informations pratiques et conseils pour profiter de Bangkok

Où dormir ?

Alors là les gars, il y a vraiment de tout, pour tous les budgets. Nous avons pris des hôtels 4 ou 5 étoiles très abordables (moins de 100€) et très satisfaisants. Ce qui est le plus difficile, c’est de choisir le quartier. Tout dépend si vous souhaitez être au calme ou au cœur de l’action. Il faut savoir que la ville est très très étendue donc privilégiez un hôtel dans le centre pour pouvoir rejoindre les différents endroits plus facilement. A côté du métro c’est encore mieux !

Où manger ?

PARTOUT. Vous trouverez dans Bangkok des tonnes de petits vendeurs de rue qui cuisinent la bouffe thai merveilleusement bien, souvent bien mieux que dans les restaurants faits pour attirer les touristes. Il ne faut pas avoir peur vraiment. Nous avons mangé le meilleur pad thai de notre séjour dans la rue, pour la modique somme de 1€. Le seul souci de mon côté concernant la bouffe, c’est que j’ai une phobie et un dégoût IMMENSE pour les fruits de mer et souvent, dans les petits « bouis-bouis » dans la rue, tout est cuisiné dans le même plat et la saveur des fruits de mer est souvent présente un peu partout. C’est un peu con, je sais, mais ça me ferme pas mal de portes. En tout cas, vous n’aurez absolument pas de souci à manger pour 1 ou 2€ des plats typiquement thais et délicieux.

Température

Nous y sommes allés en novembre, à la fin de la saison des pluies. Il faisait très chaud mais nous avons eu un peu de pluie (des grosses pluies) au minimum 1h par jour. Pas grand-chose mais il faut être prévoyant pour éviter de se retrouver à l’autre bout de la ville un soir loin de tout sous une mousson interminable…

Comment s’habiller

Pour tout ce qui est temple, il faut prévoir un pantalon et un tee-shirt avec des manches longues : vous ne pourrez pas visiter les temples sinon. Une petite cape de pluie dans votre sac-à-dos peut aussi être une bonne idée !

Se déplacer

La ville est immense donc aller d’un point A à un point B peut devenir un enfer, surtout aux heures de pointe (enfin, les heures de pointe, c’est un peu tout le temps). Lorsque vous prenez un taxi ou un tuk tuk, ils essaient systématiquement de vous arnaquer en refusant de mettre le compteur. Ils vous proposent alors un prix de base mais au final, avec le compteur, c’est 4 fois moins cher. Il faut souvent un peu batailler pour qu’ils acceptent de mettre le compteur. Au final, on est restés peu de temps donc on s’est débrouillés en taxi et en tuk tuk mais je pense que le métro reste la meilleure option pour aller plus vite et pour éviter ces bouchons infernaux.

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